In an unassuming location -- a parking lot under a viaduct -- diligent shoppers can find a broad assortment of jade and antiques, and some excellent bargains.

In an unassuming location -- a parking lot under a viaduct -- diligent shoppers can find a broad assortment of jade and antiques, and some excellent bargains. By Kevin Wu / Photos by Yu Lu-Kuang After sifting meticulously through a pile of beaded jade bracelets on a vendor's table, Daniele Pierre, a young tourist from Poland, finally finds two that meet his taste -- and his face lights up. But with bargaining to be done, he quickly realizes that it would be best to disguise his enthusiasm. "How much?" he asks, his expression now emotionless, and the vendor points to a sign where "NT$300" has been carefully lettered. Knowing that the official price is just the starting point -- and figuring that he could use some assistance to ensure that he's obtained the best possible deal -- Pierre digs through his backpack, plucks out his mobile phone, and speed-dials one of his Chinese friends. After a five-minute conversation, with the phone being passed back and forth several times, the vendor nods her head at Pierre and agrees to sell him both necklaces for a total of NT$400.
"This is why I come here," Pierre says gleefully as he stashes his purchase away in his bag. "I know I can get a good selection, and the price is always reasonable -- and negotiable." Did he mind the summer heat or the crowds he had to wade through before finding his bracelets? Not at all, says Pierre: "It's well worth it because there's no other way I could get such a good deal at a retail store."
On a scorching August weekend, most Taipei dwellers remained nestled in their air-conditioned apartments, catching up on their rest or making plans for the evening. But another group of nearly 1,000 people decided to forgo such comfort to pack themselves underneath a poorly ventilated viaduct in the middle of one of downtown Taipei's busiest intersections -- the corner of Jianguo South Road and Renai Road. What drew them all here was a common fascination with jade and Chinese antiques.
For most of the week, these humble surroundings are a municipal parking lot, but each Saturday and Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., the space is magically converted into Taipei's Jade Market. The market has been an indelible feature of the weekend scene in Taipei for tourists and locals alike for the past 20 years -- 14 of them in the current location. Since merchants from all over Taipei, and even other parts of Taiwan, descend on the market to sell their ways, it boasts an assortment of jade products and Chinese antiques unmatched anywhere else on the island.
Before the Jade Market's establishment, there was no such concentration of merchandise in any single place, and anyone looking to purchase a jade ornament would have had to patronize one of the jewelry shops dispersed throughout the city. Obviously, the selection in any one store would be far less than what is found at the hundreds of stalls at the weekend market. And the vendors drop their prices from what they charge in their shops, discounting for the difference in rent and other overhead.
"The idea of the Jade Market was conceived based on convenience for both retailers and consumers," explains Chen Jing-luan, a vendor who has specialized in high-end jade jewelry at the Jade Market for the past 18 years. "This is the most direct way for consumers to survey what is currently available to them on the market, and for retailers to gauge the demand for our products."

The Appeal of Jade
Taipei's increasing internationalization in recent years has led to the growing adoption of Western tastes. These days, local fashion magazines and designers have shifted their primary focus from gem-based to metal-based jewelry. Silver and platinum are currently the new darlings of jewelry aficionados, and while both turn heads and provide plenty of conversational fodder, neither has been the object of the world's fascination for nearly as long as jade.
Long a favorite of Chinese nobility and foreign moneyed classes, jade encapsulates the mystique that defines Southeast Asia and continues to lure visitors to the region. And while jade does not exude the same type of "look-at-me" qualities as platinum, as a fixture of the Chinese cultural landscape, jade is assured of outlasting any ephemeral trend.
Archaeologists have excavated examples of jade ornaments in various parts of China dating back 6,000 years, and formal rites and rules regarding the use of jade were established during the Zhou Dynasty (around 1000 B.C.). In most cases the stipulations of jade usage concerned sacrificial ceremonies and definitions of imperial rank, as all those within the confines of the court palace used different types of jade tablets to signify their status.
In ancient China, jade was perceived to be the essence of heaven and earth -- and was therefore carved into figures of birds and beasts and worshipped as totems. The Chinese character for jade, yu [*É], suggests a similar sentiment, as it is written with three horizontal strokes signifying heaven, mankind, and earth, and is stringed by a central vertical stroke. It was later believed that jadeware helps repel evil influences and ensure the safety of its owners. By extension, jade came to be associated with good fortune (perhaps explaining why Chow Yun Fat's character in the film God of Gamblers always wears a jade ring when he plays an important hand at cards).

The Customer Base
Since its start 20 years ago at the Guanghua Market on Ba-de Road (now better known for computers and electronic parts), the Jade Market has attracted flocks of visitors -- both serious buyers and casual window-shoppers. "Even after two decades, the Jade Market remains popular because vendors are sensitive to market demand and therefore cater to people of different genders, ages, ethnic backgrounds, and socio-economic status," says Chen Jing-luan.
A stroll through the Jade Market confirms her convictions. From newlyweds seeking jade decorations to spruce up their living rooms, to housewives and career women looking for jewelry to brighten up their fingers and wrists, to ardent Buddhists shopping for religious artifacts to help proclaim their faith, the range of customers is indeed extremely broad. And if there is jade to be found, then it will undoubtedly be available in the Jade Market -- though that is not to suggest that only jade-based products are offered there. Other items with an Oriental flavor are also abundantly available; some shoppers' favorites are tea sets, wooden religious carvings, and antique coins.
That variety makes the Jade Market an ideal stop for anybody looking for the perfect present to bring to friends and family back home. Instead of settling for a screened T-shirt, they can find something that is inherently Oriental and will represent a meaningful memento of the trip to Taiwan. Language barriers can be easily overcome either by bringing along a companion fluent in Mandarin or Taiwanese, or arming oneself with telecommunications backup the way Daniele Pierre did.
In any case, vendors are always affable and eager to make sales, meaning that they are invariably willing to answer questions pertaining to an item. "Nobody should ever be intimidated to approach a vendor with a question," advises Zaffar Ahmad, a native Kashmiri who is the Jade Market's only foreign vendor. "People will be surprised how much they can learn about what they are buying."

Beware of Fake Jade
At the same time, a big drawback of shopping at the Jade Market is the risk of being sold artificial jade or jade of shoddy quality. According to Chen Jing-luan, a lot of fake jade circulates throughout the market, and an undiscerning customer can easily mistake it for the real thing. "It can be tricky for people who are not familiar with jade," explains Chen, "Jade can be colored artificially with lasers and can also be produced through high pressure to conceal the cracks in poorer stones."
It is therefore advisable for customers to survey a broad range of products before making a purchase. During this process, it also helps to ask questions about the jade. "Vendors who are peddling anything less than A-quality will rarely insult their customers by claiming that their jade is A-quality," says Chen, as she compares a piece of fake jade with one of A-quality. "You can tell the difference from both the color and clarity. If it is too opaque, it more than likely will be fake, because real jade has an undeniable clarity to it."
Texture is another aspect that will distinguish fake from real jade. As Chen points out, any jade that is of B-quality or below will feel like it has a coat of waxing on it, making the jade feel more like plastic than a refined gemstone. Jade of poorer quality tends to corrode approximately two years after its purchase. When buying something for more than a bargain-basement price, it is best to ask the vendor to explain clearly what you are buying or to bring along another more knowledgeable person for a second opinion.
When planning your visit to the Jade Market, you will wish to consider your transportation options. For those who with cars, finding parking spots can be more than the usual challenge -- the ironic result of locating the market in what serves during the rest of the week as the neighborhood's major source of parking places. In addition, there is no MRT line in the vicinity of the Jade Market, and significantly fewer buses are operating on Sundays. As a result, a cab ride is generally the most convenient way to get to the market.
The expedition to the Jade Market can also be part of a longer outing. The spacious Ta-An Forest Park is a popular weekend recreation spot, especially for those with small children in tow. It's within easy walking distance from the Jade Market -- just proceed one block south to Xinyi Road. Even closer is the weekend Flower Market, also situated under the viaduct, just across the street from the Jade Market. With an abundance of fresh flowers, plants, garden supplies, and home decorations available at bargain prices -- and with less congestion than in the Jade Market -- the Flower Market is a pleasant place to shop or simply take a weekend stroll.