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Publications Topics Archive Topics Archive 2008 Vol.38- No.1 What's a Good Steak (and Where to Find It)
Publications Topics Archive Topics Archive 2008 Vol.38- No.1 What's a Good Steak (and Where to Find It) | What's a Good Steak (and Where to Find It) |
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In Taipei, beef lovers can now find an
assortment of upscale restaurants that serve the best cuts of meat and know how to prepare them
just right. BY BRIAN ASMUS In Taipei, beef lovers can now find an assortment of upscale restaurants that serve the best cuts of meat and know how to prepare them just right. BY BRIAN ASMUS A number of factors go into determining how to prepare and present beef. Besides the characteristics of the steak itself, other considerations are size, marbling, cut, and diner preference. Most of the meat coming into Taiwan is prepackaged. To dry it, the ACC takes the beef out to expose it to the air. As with salami, this reduces moisture content and concentrates flavor. The natural drying process also helps tenderize the meat. This is very different from Argentina where the meat is served freshly killed. "That approach," says Simon Fisher, food and beverage manager at the American Club in China (ACC), "is better suited to places where they are cooking the whole animal, but the meat must be served well-cooked or it will be tough." Steak aficionados generally prefer dry-aged beef. It has to be hung for more than 21 days while being stored at freezing temperatures of -1 to 0 degrees Celsius with a humidity level of 30%, says Chen Chung-Kuang, F&B Executive Chef at the Sherwood Taipei. Afterward around 20% of the outside crust is removed. "The process involves considerable expense since only the higher grade of meat (large pieces with evenly distributed fat content) can be dry aged," says Chen. "That is why dry-aged beef is found only in upscale restaurants and butcher shops." In addition, the Sherwood Taipei uses only A1 Prime Beef because it has a high degree of marbling (found in only 30% of choice carcasses) and A maturity - the youngest beef, which delivers the juiciness and flavor expected from high-quality, gourmet beef. Chen is a fan of corn-fed beef, though noting that the grass-fed version from Australia and Argentina develops strong sensations of liver that many find too gamey. Fisher agrees. "These gamier flavors are not as well liked in North America or Taiwan where the preference is for corn-fed beef." Most Taiwanese like ribeyes because of the richer flavors; Europeans tend to prefer New York cuts because of the extra thickness and less fat, says Fisher. Restaurants usually specify whether they want two-kilogram or six-kilogram cuts, he explains. "There is a very significant difference in quality, fat content, and thickness. We have worked out the perfect ratio to deliver the best-quality meat, but I am going to keep that a secret if you don't mind." Steak size determines how it needs to be cooked. "If you have an eight-ounce steak and you want it rare," says Fisher, "you could cook it roughly one minute on each side for the desired result. Obviously, this is not going to work with a much thicker 16-ounce steak. Either way, you are going to want to sear it first all around to seal in the juices and give it a nice crispiness. Then, you reheat it to get the desired level up to well done." Robin Liu, senior director of Robin's Grill at the Grand Formosa Regent, advises ordering larger pieces of meat and then cutting them in half to serve more than one diner. "Start with a 16-ounce steak. The bigger the piece of meat, the easier it is to keep the juices locked in." The ACC Napa Grille steakhouse serves prime Black Angus beef. According to Fisher, there is very little muscle in tenderloin and therefore also very little fat. "It is very tender, but lacks the flavor of fattier cuts like ribeye and sirloin. You have to be careful, therefore, when cooking tenderloin as it dries out fast. We recommend that diners eat this medium rare (really rare) as even medium can make for a grainy steak." Fisher says "rare" because in cooking there are only four degrees of doneness: raw, rare, medium, and well-done. "In French," points out Fisher, "this is bleu, saignant, a point and bien cuit." Ribeyes should be cooked slightly less than medium. "We do not recommend rare as there is a large portion of fat in the center that needs a proper amount of heat to dissipate the flavors," explains Fisher. "The secret is to cook the meat to rare, rest the meat for roughly 10 minutes, and then to reheat it to the right temperature before serving. This added cooking will take it to medium. You have to be very careful with ribeye because if it gets too cold before serving, the fat will congeal quite rapidly. Some chefs know how to do this very well; others do not." The interesting thing about a ribeye, he adds, is that each type of meat around the center has a different texture and flavor. "The cap, for example, has more fat and has a mouth feel that is akin to shortribs," notes Fisher. "Think of how the sections of meat in a well-cooked fish break apart. Ribeye is like that, only they are obviously stuck together much more tightly." The fame of the Sherwood's Toscana restaurant lies in its dry-aged New York cut (14 ounces) a la Smith & Wollensky, the famous Chicago steakhouse that was favored by dragon lady Miranda Priestly in the movie The Devil Wears Prada). This particular cut is viewed as particularly well-suited to dry aging because of the tenderness of the meat. The Smith & Wollensky restaurant group, says Wina Chen, assistant public relations manager at the Sherwood, develops, owns, and operates high-end, high-volume restaurants in major cities across the United States. "Before, we used to pan-fry the beef and then leave it in the oven," says Chef Chen. "Smith & Wollensky opt to simply grill the beef." The Sherwood's newly installed grill reaches temperatures of more than 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. "Because we do not turn the beef over as much, we ensure that the juiciness and tenderness of the steak are sealed by high-temperature searing," observes Chen. In the United States, most diners prefer to char the beef more than Taiwanese do. Getting saucy When it comes to sauces, says Fisher, the classic choice for pairing with grilled meats and even fish is Bernaise (tarragon, cherval, egg yolk, butter, and vinegar). But "if you really want to dress up your steak, then go for Steak Diane," he continues. "This involves Madeira mixed tableside with mushrooms and cream to create a demiglace. Fisher recommends forgetting about heavy sauces like blue cheese. "What's the point of having good meat? That sounds like steak and penicillin to me. Much better would be a mushroom sauce as the earthiness of the fungi works nicely with beef flavors." "Taiwanese prefer the seafood and egg flavors of crab-meat Hollandaise, but most would find Gorgonzola simply too strong for their palates," says Chen. Western diners, however, typically find Hollandaise unappealing, while exhibiting a stronger preference for Gorgonzola. "I'm not sure why local diners don't like the Gorgonzola," said Chen, "especially those that like stinky tofu." In many ways, he notes, blue cheeses like Gorgonzola can be seen as the Western equivalent of the notoriously smelly fermented tofu so beloved by Taiwanese diners. Green peppercorn sauces, continues Fisher, are also a bit strong and get used when the meat is less than fresh. "First, you dip the meat in ground peppercorn, pan fry it, and cover it with green peppercorn sauce. This masks a lot of the gaminess of meat that has been sitting in the refrigerator a bit too long. A green sauce for a green meat," he suggests. Best would be a little salt and pepper. "That is really all that is needed in my view," says Fisher. "Perhaps a touch of garlic butter to add a bit of zest." Chen seconds this idea: "Sea salt really brings out the flavor of the meat." As for vegetables and other side dishes, Fisher believes that "you cannot beat sautéed potatoes and onions for a hearty steak." For classic meats, he suggests roast tomatoes and mushrooms. "The acidity and slight sweetness of the tomatoes along with the earthy, woody notes of the mushrooms balances the proteins of the beef, particularly when accompanied by a good solid wine bearing all of those qualities exhibited by the vegetables." Toscana goes with baby oyster mushrooms and asparagus. The mushrooms are picked at a special organic farm when they are three days old, says Chen. "This ensures that they do not shrink up as much during cooking. Older mushrooms have a higher water content and they can really disappear." Finally, to cap off the enjoyable experience, Fisher prefers to go with a classic dessert like New York-style cheesecake. "This is very traditional both in the U.S. and the U.K. In the former, you might start with a Caesar salad, then have a steak, and end up with cheesecake. In the U.K., the preference is to have a prawn cocktail, steak, and then the cheesecake. I would not recommend going with anything too fancy. Steaks are simple and they should be treated that way." A Cut Steakhouse: Thank Caleb Jackson Like the American Club's Napa Grille, newly opened A Cut Steakhouse has gone down the well-trod path of the streamlined, mod, early 1960s décor that characterizes many a lounge bar. The carpet is mauve, the banquette seating royal purple velveteen. The subdued lighting (perhaps, a bit too dark for lunch?) is highlighted by LED lights that cast an overly red intensity on the walls. This can make steak look brilliant red and even raise pumpkin soup to the level of a garish blood orange. I didn't mind. Renowned steak chef Caleb Jackson had a hand in designing the menu, so diners are assured of a very solid foundation. The restaurant focuses on the cap of the ribeye, one of Jackson's specialties. Well-effected appetizer, salad, and soup courses round out the offering, as does a rather wide selection of wines. While I had nary a complaint about the quality of the steak, it was not quite up to Jackson's formidable standards. He always seemed to manage to crisp it to perfection. In addition, I strongly urge diners to forego the steak sauce; it tastes like cocktail shrimp sauce! If you must, put it on the side to test it out first. Similarly, the salts can overpower. Just leave the meat on its own; the quality and preparation here are all the flavoring you need. Regardless of the minor flaws, beef lovers will leave as happily satisfied as I did. A Cut Steakhouse, Ambassador Hotel 63 ZhongShan North Road, Section 2, Taipei Tel: 2571-0389 Napa Grille: Club Camaraderie You will need to be a member of the American Club in China or go with someone who is to get into this newly redesigned venue. Like the other restaurants mentioned here, all steaks at the Napa Grille are USDA Prime. The streamlined retro early-1960s look achieves a fine balance between trendiness and classic elegance. The fact that everyone knows everyone else makes for cozy camaraderie. The 16-ounce ribeye is NT$1,600, as is the 16-ounce New York cut. The 10-ounce New York cut is NT$1,100, and the 12-ounce and six-ounce Angus Beef filets (these are a wise choice) go for NT$1,450 and NT$850. This is accompanied by Napa fries, roasted mushrooms, beef tomatoes, and choice of steak glaze: Bernaise, garlic butter, or lemon butter sauce. For an additional NT$120, diners can opt for truffle glaze, or an extra NT$100 for peppercorn and mushroom cream sauce. Napa Grille American Club in China 47 BeiAn Road, Taipei Tel: 2885-8260 Carnegie's: Simple & Honest Steakhouses are often very formal. When you aren't in the mood for a major production or don't feel like getting all gussied up, head over to Carnegie's, kick back and enjoy a steak at a reasonable price: ribeyes (10 ounces NT$730); New York strip (10 ounces NT$620); filet mignon (nine ounces NT$730); Chateaubriand (filet mignon for two 16 ounces NT$960); U.S. Prime strip loin (10 ounces NT$790). These come with the following sauces: red wine, mushroom, Bernaise, blue cheese, Bordelaise, or black pepper. Choice of potato includes shoestring fries, mashed potatoes, roasted potatoes, and baby new potatoes. For vegetables, choose from creamed spinach, cauliflower, and broccoli (sautéed or au gratin), Brussels sprouts, and carrots (sautéed). Despite its more down-home feel, Carnegie's is no slouch when it comes to steak preparation and service. You will get a top-quality piece of beef here, no doubt about it! Carnegie's 100 AnHe Road, Section 2 Tel: 2325-4433 Lawry's: Palace of Prime Rib A suitable venue for a business or family dinner, Lawry's serves up classic prime-rib roast in a large, silver trolley that is wheeled to customer tables. While the spinning salad can be either entertaining or an annoying intrusion, there is no question about the quality of the beef. Opt for the English cut (three thin slices deftly carved to heighten the rich beef; NT$1,400), the Lawry cut (the traditional and most popular cut; NT$1,590) or the Diamond Jim Brady cut (an extra-thick portion at NT$2,250). The end cuts are well done and loaded with the rich flavors of reduced fat. All dinners include the spinning-bowl salad (crisp romaine and iceberg lettuce, watercress, shredded beets, chopped eggs, and croutons, tossed with Lawry's vintage dressing), mashed potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, and whipped cream horseradish. Lawry's 12F, Living Mall 138 BaDe Road, Section 4, Taipei Tel: 3762-1312 Robin's Steakhouse: Best Steak in Town Senior director Robin Liu has more than 40 years of dealing with steak, starting from his early days as a waiter at the U.S. military Officers' Club. After a long-term stint at a top establishment - the Hilton Hotel's Trader's Grill - he has been with the Grand Formosa Regent since 1990. Over the years, he has become a central fixture in Taipei's steak scene. He is now dealing with the fourth and even fifth generation of families that have celebrated important occasions under his watch. Ditto for an endless stream of CEOs and managing directors. If you want your steak restaurant to remember your exact cooking and serving preferences, then this is the place for you! The décor is an attractive blend of glass, brick, stained wood, and plain white walls. The open kitchen ensures that the delectable scent of cooking steak wafts through the restaurant, tempting and tantalizing diners. Meal prices include a weekday set lunch meal for NT$1,375 and set dinner menu for NT$2,100. After testing out numerous steaks around town, I have to grant the crown of best ribeye (it was in my view the best steak as well) and best sirloin to Robin. The mesquite charcoal enhanced the ribeye in a way that makes you want to savor every single mouthful. Fantastic! Robin's Steakhouse 2F, Grand Formosa Regent Hotel 41 ZhongShan North Road, Section 2, Taipei 台北市中山北路二段41號 Tel: 2523-8000 x3930 Ruth's Chris: All Ruth's Chris steaks are served on hot plates with butter. While the smell is divine (think of fresh buttered popcorn), it can lead to a bit of excessive greasiness with cuts that are already highly fatty (like ribeye). The fat and butter can congeal unattractively when the plate grows cold. The butter does, however, suit less fatty (and therefore less flavorful) steaks like tenderloin (filet mignon). On the menu, diners will find filet (12 ounces for NT$1,390), New York strip (12 ounces for NT$1,290 or 16 ounces for NT$1,560), ribeye (12 ounces for NT$1,290 or 16 ounces for NT$1,560), Porterhouse (Australian grain-fed for two people NT$3,690), petite filet (eight ounces for NT$1,090), T-bone (Australian grain-fed NT$1,890), and cowboy ribeye (boned Australian grain-fed NT$1,890). My recommendation is to go with the ribeye without butter or the filets with a bit of butter. Given the high fat content of the ribeye, especially when coupled with butter, diners would be wise to opt for rougher wines with less finesse. Forget about the elegant, expensive French Bordeaux. Go for a tough Italian Sangiovese or a fruity Red Zinfandel instead. Ruth's Chris 2F, 135 MinSheng East Road, Section 3, Taipei Tel: 2545-8888 Toscana: Champion New York Cut When you want steak but don't want to feel like you are eating in a steakhouse, head to the very elegant Toscana with its Italianate tiled floors, potted palms, and lovely solarium. If service is a prime consideration, head here as well. Toscana is simply the best in that department. I tested three prime tenderloins (filet mignons), the first with sea salt and black pepper (NT$980), the second with Hollandaise sauce and crabmeat (NT$1,100), and the third with Gorgonzola (NT$1,050). All were eight-ounce cuts. The former was also accompanied with a long serving tray with sea salt, Pommery mustard, yellow mustard, anchovy and caper in clear butter, and horseradish. Steak preparation follows the dictates of the famed Chicago steakhouse Smith & Wollensky. With their pungently strong flavors, however, Hollandaise, seafood, and Gorgonzola tend to mask the natural taste of the beef. Most steak lovers avoid them. Surprisingly, the anchovy caper concoction tweaked the beef without overcoming it. While the ribeye (12 ounces for NT$1,250, 14 ounces for NT$1,450) was definitely among the best in town, the cut that set me back in my chair was the dry-aged New York cut (14 ounces for NT$1,380, 16 ounces for NT$1,550). Nicely crisped on the outside, a bite of this baby transported me back to my favorite of favorite countries: Argentina. Using any sauces would destroy the smoky intensity and natural flavors. Don't do it! This is simple perfection on its own. Toscana 1F, Sherwood Hotel 111 MinSheng East Road, Section 3, Taipei Tel: 2718-1188 US Beef is Best! At local steakhouses, Taiwan consumers enjoy eating some of the finest beef produced in the United States. Anyone who has savored a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Prime-grade steak knows that it is tender and juicy with a great flavor that makes it superior to any other steak. Of all the beef produced in the United States, less than 2% is certified as USDA Prime, the highest grade in the USDA's beef-quality grading system, one of the earliest and best meat-grading systems in the world. Typically, USDA Prime is not found in supermarkets, since its limited supply is quickly purchased by fine-meat purveyors marketing to upscale hotels and restaurants both in the United States and abroad. The USDA grades beef at the request of the meat packer. All meat is inspected for wholesomeness, but the packers must pay a fee to have the meat graded. All U.S. beef shipped overseas is both inspected and graded, meeting some of the highest safety and quality standards in the world. The grading system determines the quality rating of beef based on a complicated inspection system, which essentially measures the amount of marbling (fat content) in the ribeye muscle (lean) portion, and considers that together with the maturity (age) of the beef carcass to arrive at the grade quality. The higher the ratio of marbling and the younger the beef, the higher the grade. The fat marbling determines tenderness and juiciness, and affects the flavor; the age of the beef determines beef texture and also influences flavor. Younger beef produces a finer texture and a lighter red color. Since the majority of cattle in the United States are fattened with a continuous supply of corn, the meat contains more intermuscular fat, which makes it more tender and flavorful compared with grass-fed cattle from other origins. USDA Prime Grade has the highest rating for marbling ratio combined with the youngest maturity of beef. That is why Prime is the most tender and flavorful, with the finest of texture found anywhere in the world. Although there are eight levels of USDA graded beef, consumers generally come into contact with only three grades in supermarkets, butcher shops, or restaurants: USDA Prime, Choice, and Select. Among the lesser grades are Cutter and Canner - typically found in frozen dinners, microwave dishes, hamburgers, and other processed food products. One of the most popular cuts of beef is filet mignon or tenderloin - also known as tournedos or, when served for two, Chateaubriand. While the most tender (the loin is considered the best part of the steak), these are not always the most flavorful because of the lower fat content. Then there are Porterhouse steaks, reckoned by many to be the best of all. This includes the top loin (more fat) and the soft tenderloin (very tender). A T-bone is nearly the same, but with bone and less tenderloin. The New York cut is like a Porterhouse or T-bone with no tenderloin. Finally, a sirloin is nearer the rump, and therefore more muscular and less tender. For more information about the USDA's beef grading system, please refer to the web site www.ams.usda.gov/lsg/mgc/grade.htm. - By Brian Asmus |
